Why this glitzy Chinese restaurant, from endlessly prolific Lombardi Family Concepts, has a French name is not entirely clear, except that it does convey a sense of class and style that will resonate with many diners who visit the Oak Lawn area newcomer.  Among  the appetizers we tried were crispy crab wontons—on the plus side, they  boasted real crab; on the minus side, the watery filling  was more mascarpone and cream cheese than crabmeat. Even though dim sum is usually served at brunch from carts, the menu offers a broad selection of these little tidbits, as well as dumplings. Our favorite choice was the bright, candy-red har gow dumplings, mouthwatering morsels filled with ground king prawns and bamboo shoots (the caviar and gold leaf toppings were at once lavish and  utterly unnecessary). The dumplings were better than the wagyu beef potstickers, which contained a bone chip. They also bested the dry Berkshire pork char siu and the wok-fried lamb shoulder, which were coated in sauces that seemed to have sugar as a major ingredient. Even the pickling brine for the cucumber and jicama served with the already sweet pecan shrimp contained sugar. Prices are commensurate with the undeniably pleasant, decidedly upscale setting.