Despite its unwavering popularity and sharp service, this Montrose mainstay, festooned with bamboo and a dramatic hand-painted mural, can be hit or miss. We savored the spicy red chile oil pork dumplings, glistening and sprinkled with scallions. But our entrée of beef and pickled long beans was marred with tough, fatty meat and more dried peppers (an inedible ingredient) than beans. Better was simple yet slightly bland baby bok choy sautéed with garlic and a cold noodle dish with jalapeños and crushed Sichuan peppercorns. We paired it all with spot-on wines, perfectly quelling the heat of the cuisine.