2010: I drove by the joint looking for the sign that I’d seen in Wyatt McSpadden’s Texas BBQ book, but the wall facing the corner had been whitewashed. I learned from the owner that he’d paid a man to repaint the sign, and he’d all but disappeared after the single coat of white paint was applied. Luckily the front window is still painted with a sign, so I knew I was in the right place. They offered a rib sandwich and a two-meat sandwich or sausage and brisket. Brisket had one of the deepest smoke rings I’ve seen anywhere along with a crisp black crust. The tender meat had great smoke flavor and well-rendered fat throughout. The only down side was the slightly dry texture. Elgin sausage was a great blend of spicy, peppery, moist meat that had plenty of good smoke. Sliced lengthwise, it was easier to enjoy in large bites. The ribs also had a nice bark and just enough good smoke. The overall flavor was great from simple seasoning and little else. The meat needed just a slight tug to come off the bone, but some of the chewy fat could have been better rendered. I liked that they separated the ribs tips and left them on the plate. Gnawing on these tasty morsels was almost better than the meat on the long bones.