Felipe Armenta’s ode to his mother and her ancestral Guanajuato home ups the game for elevated Mexican dining in a gorgeous contemporary setting. Try this: Shredded short rib meat slathered in red chile sauce atop supple sopes gets a perky finish from pickled red onion, tempered by queso fresco. Mama Maria’s signature mole, a dark brick hue and perfectly velvety, envelops a juicy half-chicken; its deep and nuanced elements get a nice foil in the tart, crunchy escabeche veggies alongside. Thick shreds of crab fill a tender trio of enchiladas, each with a distinctive spicy almond sauce (one infused with green chile, one with red, and one left simple and creamy). Pro tip: Crowds fill the place day and night, so a patio table under the giant live oak is advised; the bar is charming but noisy.