An anchor in the new, upscale Montrose Collective, this handsome dining room is already packed. Expect high ceilings, a mix of banquettes and tables, lots of light, and a long horseshoe-shaped bar. We started with raw oysters—big and briny, with a spicy Calabrian chile mignonette—and burrata, the size and look of a hefty scoop of vanilla ice cream, graced with strawberry, prosciutto, and basil. Two pastas pleased: tagliatelle with a traditional veal bolognese and scarpinocc (so named because it looks like a wooden shoe, or “scarpa”), the al dente pasta filled with ricotta and served with morels and tender asparagus. But the pasta in the lobster ravioli bordered on tough and lacked seasoning. One dish soared: moist, delicate, snow-white red snapper with caramelized fennel, lemon butter, and fennel pollen pasta—perfect! Bring plenty of plastic.