The dining room has been lightened up (and rustified a bit) and the bar has gotten bigger at the former home of Tre Enoteca, now a Texas–meets–Deep South eatery opened by husband-and-wife team Patrick and Lindsey Edwards. We visited first for Sunday brunch and found the expected standards: eggs, grits, and biscuits, along with a few unusual offerings, like a smoked fish salad accompanied by seasonal pickled vegetables. And lots of exotic cocktails to choose from, like a Fruity Pebbles cereal milk concoction with orange liqueur. It’s easy to get exactly what you want here; an inexpensive sides menu ranges from bacon and hash browns to one fried chicken leg. It’s that chicken that has us raring to go back for dinner, when it’s served with braised greens and chowchow.