We found lots to love at this modern Italian restaurant in the revamped Centrum building. The dining room is handsome and relaxed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, patterned tile floors, and an atrium skylight. It’s at its best right before nightfall, when the room darkens considerably. We sat in the most dimly lit section, but a votive candle and our knowledgeable waiter helped illuminate the regional Italian menu by chef Giuliano Matarese. The house-made pasta and Neapolitan pizza specials wowed us (that crust!), as did some seasonal starters: a velvety creamed cauliflower soup, poured table-side over lump crab, and herb-flecked charred octopus, artfully plated with silken tonnato sauce, black garlic puree, balsamic glaze, and fingerling potatoes. An entrée of buttery seared scallops teamed beautifully with savory mushroom risotto and sweet slivers of fig; the scallops teetered on the salty side until sips of well-priced Soave brought balance. Dessert was a mind-blowing cappuccino crème brûlée.