Mimsy’s Craft Barbecue
Wade and Kathy Elkins were high school sweethearts in the town of Magnolia, north of Houston. After moving to the Bayou City, Kathy, a classically trained chef, worked at various restaurants while Wade, a self-taught pitmaster, began to do barbecue pop-ups. When a family-owned building came up for sale in Crockett, they decamped for a return to small-town life and opened Mimsy’s, named after Wade’s great-grandmother. His Central Texas–style smoked meats and links (such as boudin made with brisket) are the perfect partner for Kathy’s elevated sides (mac and cheese made with smoked queso and poblanos) and specials (shrimp and grits), all of which are enriched by the rustic atmosphere of a former ice-making warehouse.
Method: Post oak; reverse-flow smoker
Pitmaster: Wade Elkins, 36
Pro-tip: If you’re in a hurry, grab a wrap, which features sausage swaddled in brisket-fat tortillas.
The adventurous joint, newly opened in Crockett, is here to take back the crown from big-city barbecue.