A meal at award-winning Mixtli is more like a performance than a dinner: purchase tickets online, sit down in an oh-so-chic sidelined boxcar at a table of twelve guests, and enjoy a set menu presented by chefs Diego Galicia and Rico Torres. And what a showstopper meal it can be. The dishes change every 45 days or so, always with a different leitmotif; our recent meal offered “the best, most memorable dishes from the past five years.” Not surprisingly, we found it to be our favorite experience ever here: rich with indigenous Colonial and Spanish influences within the modern ten-course tasting menu. It seemed a bit heartier and less precious than some earlier visits, no doubt due to the star ingredient of the night, corn, its earthy sweetness in contrast to notes of chile, citrus, cheese, and smoke. For example: esquites, a refined version of roasted street corn, complete with queso cotija and tiny dabs of chile; delicate huaraches (baby sandals, these) topped with luscious black bean puree and tender wild mushrooms; and smoky duck carnitas in corn crepe purses. As good as the food is, it’s heightened by the camaraderie with your fellow diners; ours included a TV producer, a medical researcher, an architect, a chef from the Hill Country, and a host of interesting others. Service is as polished, entertaining, and informed as one would expect. Word is Mixtli may move to a larger space soon; don’t miss this intimate experience.
City: San Antonio