The sprawling commercial building from the early twentieth century has been softened with touches like basket light shades, nautical charts, and rustic lanterns. We loved the chef’s treatment of our pristine red snapper filet, garnished with fresh pea tendrils and other greens, in a pool of scandalously rich truffle cream sauce. Just as good (maybe better) were beautifully bronzed scallops garnished with toasted pepitas and surrounded by plump ravioli filled with a sweetish pumpkin puree. The seafood is so fresh you might be inspired to buy some. Go right ahead. It’s displayed on ice in the small market space up front.