This is not your mama’s Tex-Mex. Omar Flores elevates the classic cuisine via ingredient upgrades, top-chef skills, and real-Mex touches. There’s an upcharge for this, and an audience too, judging from the well-heeled weeknight crowd. The decor straddles “chic ranch” and “Texas resort”: comfortable, with Longhorn taxidermy, tooled leather, and cowhides. We were blown away by the blue corn molotes: fried masa “empanadas” stuffed with chorizo, sweet potato, and Oaxaca cheese, perched on creamy, spicy avocado salsa. The hearty El Capitan plate was another winner, anchored by smoky-delicious brisket enchiladas with a touch of molten cheese, under a cap of earthy ancho chile sauce. Mesquite-grilled Angus flap steak—well seasoned and juicy, with a nicely charred crust and rosy center—starred in the tampiqueña platter; flanking it were two cheese enchiladas, rice, and refried beans. Even the beans impressed: a loose, silken mash of tender, barely broken beans.
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Elevated Tex-Mex from Omar Flores in Preston Center.