Situated across the street from the Meyerson Symphony Center, this modern Japanese spot draws a sophisticated downtown crowd. The drink menu is a tome with a beautiful wood-carved cover, the pages detailing more than fifty sakes and a number of specialty cocktails. Popping in for dinner, we started with the ton gyoza, five artfully plated dumplings stuffed with boar meat and drizzled with a dried-cherry nimono. On our waiter’s recommendation, we moved on to the Friday Roller Coaster roll: cold snow crab, cucumber, and avocado rolled inside out with a slice of warm salmon and a topping of spicy sriracha and reduced teriyaki sauce.