Chef Ying Aikens has remodeled her popular corner restaurant, modernizing the decor to match the food’s sophistication. Back by popular demand is the gratifying paella served on Monday and Tuesday, with ample portions of mussels, clams, shrimp, fish, chicken, and Spanish chorizo atop saffron rice. Lamb osso buco with bok choy and roasted cauliflower sates the big, carnivorous appetite, while the grazer just wanting to nibble and sip wine (there’s a remarkable wine list) finds much to love in manchego-stuffed piquillo peppers and escargots baked in puff pastry with grapes, mushrooms, and pecan-studded herb butter. The sublime finish is a raspberry-Chambord soufflé, worth the trip alone.