Nick & Sam’s
From the glitzy decor and jarring art to the intergenerational crowd, there’s an air of Vegas to the dining room, which was lively on our visit. A balloon bouquet announcing a twenty-fifth birthday adorned a table of revelers; another big table was equally animated. Our excellent waiter greeted us with a pitch: the paintings—some by Phil Romano, the restaurant’s founder—were for sale. He returned to the table with a plastic-wrapped platter of raw meat for a lesson in steak cuts. The menu ranges from steakhouse classics to hit-and-miss Asian and Italian dishes. We started our meal with a bland Snow White Roll from the sushi menu. Heavy on rice, it held a bit of warm crab, avocado, and cucumber in the center and a razor-thin shaving of Japanese snapper on top. Crispy Texas Quail was drenched in an orange-chile sauce and came with a side of Asian pear slaw. Our Prime, dry-aged New York sirloin steak—served with an aggressive steak sauce on the side—was properly cooked to order. Our steak was good, though, for $60, not exceptional. For an opulent treat, you can drop $152 on a four-ounce Miyazaki steak, the holy grail of wagyu. Broccolini, an à la carte side, was perfectly crisp-tender but suffered from a chile-flake overdose. Tiny yellow potatoes cooked in duck fat were a good starchy side, and better suited to steak than the fried rice or mac and cheese. Desserts, like the gigantic six-layer cake— are crowd pleasers.