A former ice cream shop gets new energy in a bright, tidy, family-run River Oaks cafe turning out better Middle Eastern fare than we’ve found in this town in decades. Falafel scores big points for a perfect texture of exterior crunch and spot-on interior suppleness, with herbs just assertive enough to please. Paired with creamy, lemony baba ghanoush and ground meat–stuffed kebba with perky tzatziki, appetizers make an ample, gratifying meal. To skip the sizable grilled lamb kabobs, generously juicy and flavorful, would be a mistake, especially if enjoyed with the cucumber-mint-yogurt salad. Sweet, attentive servers make you want to return soon.