Come-as-you-are is the vibe at this snug, rustic bungalow by former Coltivare bartender Martin Stayer, who charmingly named this, his first restaurant, after his grandmother. On the concise menu of mostly small plates, a must is the signature baked potato bread dotted with bacon and served warm in the skillet alongside sour cream. House-made pastas shine; we liked the giant ravioli stuffed with ricotta in duck broth and Nonno’s pasta, a hearty Bolognese over tagliatelle. Kudos to the chef for getting grilled octopus right, tender and cooked perfectly, and then tossing it with fried artichokes and potatoes in light salsa verde sauce. However, triple-seared Texas tritip with sautéed cabbage was uninspired, and the rare meat was chewy. Prepare for rocking tunes from the bar and young, eager servers on the ready.