This intimate place has been setting the standard for creative Italian food in Dallas for a long time, so reserve well ahead. Fettunta, Tuscany’s take on bruschetta, did that appetizer one better with little clouds of chicken liver mousse and a sweet onion condiment added to the grilled squares of bread. Chittara pasta featured plump Gulf shrimp, Calabrian chile, scallions, green garlic, and Meyer lemon. Crème caramel is as popular a dessert in Italy as in France; this one comes with a lemon-ricotta cookie. Folded white napkins and nice stemware keep the atmosphere from being too casual.