Julian Barsotti is known for his Italian restaurants (Nonna, Carbone’s), but at this handsome spot he celebrates his favorite Tex-Mex dishes. Pretty tiled floors, arched walls adorned with bright murals, and colorful folk art lend an ambience that’s more stylish than old-school. With ingredient upgrades such as Rosewood Ranches Wagyu beef, the kitchen turns out some righteous classics: perfectly fried gorditas stuffed with your choice of proteins (our ground beef was wonderfully spiced); cheese enchiladas covered with chile con carne; tender Wagyu brisket tacos, with charred tomatillo-serrano salsa in soft, house-made flour tortillas. Snapper Calabacita—fried Gulf snapper in creamy chile verde–zucchini sauce (one of three snapper dishes)—is an outlier, skewing a bit upscale from the rest of the menu, and it’s delicious.