Dining Guide

Ohn Korean Eatery

To walk into Ohn is to enter a warren of rooms that might be off any side street in Busan. This does not feel like Houston—and it’s electrifying. Dark booths are wrapped in heavy beams and subtly lit by neon. Each has a button that can be pushed for service, which is prompt and able. And the Korean fusion is well worth exploring. A pomegranate-infused soju paired well with the intense flavors of our garlic-soy wings and a strangely pungent dish called tteok-bokki, in which rice cakes, fish cakes, and dumplings meld in a bubbling skillet of tomato and cheese. Delicious pickled sides of kimchee, onions, peppers, cucumbers, and the like covered the table. And the Seoul brisket held its own here in barbecue-crazed Texas. The showstopper, however, was a dessert of puffed rice called Ice Cream Krispies.