Comfortable and classy, Olamaie offers an interior decked out in the creamy tones of Grandma’s chocolate meringue pie and an open kitchen remarkable for its civilized calm. A well-honed repertoire of gussied-up dishes showcases legit Deep South ingredients like Broadbent bacon, sorghum syrup, and Jefferson red rice, the latter as a warm risotto-like bed for fat Gulf white shrimp and chartreuse-colored romanesco. Salty country ham adds a little excitement to a broccoli salad, the al dente florets snuggled into a cloud of airy farmer’s cheese. Don’t blanch at the cost of the locally sourced wagyu steaks; both the 16-ounce strip and 18-ounce ribeye, in all their crispy-edged, rosy-centered glory, serve two (if not more), and come with a so-called Southern Sideboard of vegetables. On our visit, they included ethereal butter-suffused whipped potatoes and a luxurious creamed kale dusted with bread crumbs from Olamaie’s famous, don’t-miss, believe-the-hype biscuits, which can be ordered separately.
Cuisine: New American