Chef-owner Michael Fojtasek has turned upscale Olamaie into a homey, takeout-only version of its usual modern-Southern self. It’s called Little Ola’s Biscuits, and it’s offering substantial salads, bowls, fried chicken, CFS, house-baked cookies, and such. Order this to go: The rice bowl is puredee Southern: mounds of a pearly white heirloom grain (Louisiana’s Prairie Ronde) topped with incredibly delicious stewed okra, tomato, and eggplant. Exceptionally creamy, the finely chopped egg salad has a sly hit of mustard and horseradish. Purple-hull-pea salad with a little splash of Tabasco and sherry vinegar makes a side dish worthy of a picnic (it reminded us a bit of Texas caviar). As for our sandwich order, if the boneless slice of fried chicken (tucked between two halves of a biscuit) hadn’t been so overdone (surely a onetime flub) it might have been excellent; luckily the honey butter–swabbed biscuit was deliriously good. Finally, treat yourself to something for breakfast: a twee jar of pear-cardamom jam. Pro tip: Order online. Park behind the restaurant in the nice alley off 17th Street (between Nueces and San Antonio) and they will bring your order out.
Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.