Despite some shakeups in the kitchen (original co-executive chef Grae Nonas moved to Minnesota), the genteel cottage is still delivering one of the most delicious and gracious meals in town under the direction of chef-owner Michael Fojtasek. We love it when a meal starts out with slices of Tennessee prosciutto-style ham with a bit of honey. Homemade crackers took the edge off piquant shrimp red with Tabasco sauce, and a few slivers of Benton’s ham, the Cadillac of country hams, were perfect with a soft whisper of a hush puppy, highlighting the beauty of the small plates. An enormous ribeye came with enough marbling to avoid any pretense of health. But, really, it’s the stellar biscuits, lacquered in honey butter, that make a meal here worth your trip—and even though you can get them delivered by Uber at lunch, we suspect that the bourbon-laced cocktail with mole bitters would not travel as well.
Cuisine: New American