One Fifth Mediterannean
More Middle Eastern than Mediterranean, this new version of Chris Shepherd’s annual shift from one cuisine to the next within the same space hooked us on our first visit. Small shareable plates satisfied four of us; we never even got to the family-style chicken, fish, or lamb dishes. Top marks went to the Turkish hummus, served hot and spiked with garlic butter and ready to be scooped up with plate-size, airy, fluffy pita bread. We also fought over the mutabal, a smoky eggplant dip (like baba ghanouj); the itch (a bulgur and vermicelli salad); and the chicken liver with olives, crisp bits of chicken skin, and charred onion. Roasted tomato with whipped feta and haloumi (a brined cheese) wrapped in phyllo equally surprised and delighted. Only the somewhat undercooked coffee-roasted beets disappointed a bit.