One Fifth: Red Sauce Italian
Chris Shepherd’s newest One Fifth is his take on the Italian-American food of his youth. Our chicken Parmesan, as big as a catcher’s mitt, came loaded with tomato sauce, cheese, and a sprinkle of basil. The rigatoni alla vodka—little cups of pasta filled with creamy sauce—came perfectly cooked (though a few herbs would have added interest). The vast space, bustling with adept servers and happy patrons, is festive.