One Fifth Romance Languages
Gone is One Fifth Steak, replaced by the second in acclaimed chef Chris Shepherd’s master plan to open five restaurants in this former church, one after another. As the name suggests, the menu celebrates the cuisines of France, Spain, and Italy. Servings are smallish, so we shared a range of dishes, from prosciutto dolloped with creamy stracciatella cheese atop hazelnut agrodolce—a heavenly dance of salty and sweet—to meaty charred octopus with a smear of romesco sauce on a bed of chickpeas. Praiseworthy indeed were two house-made pastas: one autumn-orange chitarra made with piquillo peppers and served with squid, clams, and a sprinkle of citrus-spiked bread crumbs; the other a toothsome casarecce with duck bolognese. Utterly divine entrées included pan-seared flounder placed atop a white gazpacho and fork-tender beef cheek braised in robust burgundy gravy with roasted vegetables.