Opening a second location in a sunny space downtown, Paco and dad Francisco Islas continue to spread the gospel of the family’s ancestral Hidalgo food. Often filtered through the elder’s experience working in a French restaurant kitchen, the comfort dishes get nuanced treatment, such as the lovely sautéed branzino veracruzana, bathed in a dark-red chile ranchera sauce studded with sliced green olives, bell pepper, and onion. A bountiful barbacoa platter meant for sharing offers creamy black beans, fluffy yellow rice, crunchy chicharrones, and salsa amarilla surrounding a mound of meltingly tender shredded beef, all for stuffing inside tender corn tortillas. The tlacoyo dish is a quartet of oval black bean–infused masa patties, grilled and piled with a medley of cilantro, radishes, onion, queso fresco, avocado, crema, and tomatillo salsa. Wash those down with a fresh blackberry margarita.