Ubiquitous chef Tim Love refashioned a derelict building in the Stockyards from which to roll out his stylish, upbeat take on Mexican fare, starting with a showy table-side preparation of queso, which we like to customize with avocado, grilled shrimp, and lime. Chile-pepita hummus with veggie crudités and grilled king crab legs slathered in cilantro-orange-chipotle butter warrant a return, as does the shareable porterhouse with grilled onion, assorted salsas, and queso panela quesadillas. A beef short rib filling takes birria tacos up a notch (above), while venison gives fajitas new relevance. The watermelon margarita and ranch water with muddled jalapeño are definitely worth a try.