At Pappas Delta Blues Smokehouse, the smoked brisket is the star of the show–the prime-grade Creekstone brisket literally has its name in lights on a marquee above the front door.”That meat’s gotta be perfect,” says chef Michael Velardi, who has been with the Pappas restaurant group for 27 years, 15 of which have been spent with its barbecue joints. “If it’s not, we won’t serve it.” Alongside restaurant group founder Harris Pappas, Velardi knows the expectations that come with such a display.

That brisket was perfect on my first visit. You get a choice of lean, fatty, or both. I asked for both. The lean slices were everything…

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