The $195 twelve-course tasting menu is, oddly, rather short on pasta. But an early visit demonstrated highs, lows, and plenty of potential. The stylish twelve-seat counter venue is an offshoot of the Michelin-starred original, in Los Angeles. On our visit, the charming young husband-and-wife chef-owners—Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee—served riffs on highly original dishes that hit all the high notes, such as a lovely small piece of Akaushi beef anointed with a savory-sweet sauce boosted with sarsaparilla and raspberry vinegar (successfully hinting of Dr Pepper) and a crisp-skinned chicken in a sumptuous brandy-tinged crawfish stock blended with Louisiana rice. But sometimes the novelty was off-key; burgundy truffles and Parmigiano Reggiano couldn’t compensate for excess oil in the black pasta made with activated charcoal. Best of show: ethereal sourdough bread and an amazing dessert of sweet-tart kalamansi semifreddo topped with caviar. Reservations required.