The hand-painted wooden sign reads “Pat’s Barbecue,” but everybody calls it Pat Gee’s after its late founder, Mack Henry “Pat” Gee, who opened this barbecue shack east of Tyler, deep in the piney woods, sometime around 1963.

Both the pork and beef sandwiches are stuffed generously. The sauce seems made for beef, and the fatty bits of brisket point carry the hickory smoke better than the pork. Both would be incomplete without the dill pickles and onion slices.