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Dining Guide

Peached Tortilla

We finally figured out the appeal: the Peached Tortilla is a Texas cafe with cool furniture and a hip young clientele. Granted, the menu’s modern and all over the map: Asian, Mexican, and all-American (a fried chicken dinner and whiskey special on a recent weekday). But the loyal customers and the casual, smiling service are basically the same. The owners have just substituted white wooden benches for vinyl-covered chairs and bright geometric wallpaper for neon beer signs. The time before last we did the taco trio, featuring a daily veggie special of perky grilled-cauliflower florettes (with slivers of radish and kewpie mayo squiggles). The other two tacos were the so-called banh mi taco (with Vietnamese-style braised pork belly) and a crunchy fried-fish taco with tart apple slaw. This time we did the aforementioned Wednesday special, a super bargain at $16. Three beautifully fried pieces of chicken came out with extra-crisp skin encasing juicy (if greasy) meat. The big buttery biscuit had just a bit of sugar, giving it a toasty caramelized top. We were less crazy about the vegetables, because the miso-buttered corn was over-roasted and dried out (if still sweet), and the dashi-bacon-braised kale followed the traditional Southern rule of “If it’s green, cook it to death.” But we couldn’t complain about the generosity of the serving. Our one wish is that the kitchen would teach the servers what’s going on with the food. A question about the biscuit was met with “That’s the chef’s secret formula!” and a big wink. Oh, please.

 

City: Austin

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$

Rating: ★★

Address: 5520 N. Burnet Rd., Austin, TX, 78758

Hours: L Fri & Sat. D Tue–Sun. B Sun.

Phone: 512-330-4439

Website: www.thepeachedtortilla.com/

Last updated: October 22, 2017