High highs and low lows are the name of the game at this fresh, agreeable remodel of the old Café Josie spot by prominent Austin restaurant group MML (the folks behind Clark’s, Jeffrey’s, Sammie’s, and more). The West Austin crowd is showing up for expensive salads, classy pizzas, and entrées like a generous half chicken with lovely summer squash in a verjus sauce that managed to be simultaneously delicious and staggeringly oversalted. A friend’s summery salad of melon, pecorino romano, and basil with good olive oil hit all the right notes, but our pork schnitzel was so overcooked it didn’t have an ounce of juice left. The room is stylishly understated, the servers smiling. But friendliness doesn’t mean much to a customer at a corner table who’s been waving her arms around for five minutes to let someone—anyone—know that she’s ready for the check.