Peggy Sue BBQ
2009: I felt like ribs, so the rib platter at Peggy Sue was just the ticket. A healthy portion of both spare ribs and baby backs come piled high together with your choice of two great sides. (On this day I opted for the chunky potato salad and the unique hoppin’ john.) Three large spare ribs come alongside five baby backs. The spare ribs had a decent smokiness and very well rendered fat, but that’s to be expected if they’re as overcooked as these were. The texture was of braised rather than smoked meat. Some readers might call this sacrilegious for the BBQ Snob, but I prefer the pre-sauced baby backs on this plate to the spare ribs. These ribs are covered in a generous layer of Peggy Sue’s own homemade spicy sauce. This sauce has some real heft along with plenty of black pepper and none of the candy sweetness often found in inferior sauces. 2008: The sides here are what shine. Steamed spinach, skin-on mashed potatoes, squash casserole—they’re all good. The meat, however, lacks the depth of flavor that the sides provide. The brisket was sliced thin, with no fat. It had a good black crust and well-defined smoke line, but the flavor did not travel to the center of each slice. The spare ribs equaled the appearance and dryness of the brisket, but the flavor was more pronounced. The baby backs arrived sauced. Their lack of adhesion to the bone made me think parboiled—the lack of smoke flavor confirmed it. These are tasty, tender, flavorful ribs, but they’re not real barbecue.
Hours: Open Sun-Thur 11-9, Fri & Sat 11-10.
Last updated: May 3, 2013