Peska Seafood Culture
This plantation-shuttered dining room offers as pleasant a setting for upscale dining as one can find in Houston, but we chose the more intimate bar, with a view of the patio. The bartender’s perfect pour of gin and tonic, swirled with juniper berries and stems of thyme, nearly outshone the Peruvian ceviche combo of mahimahi, octopus, sweet potatoes, and leche de tigre. But seafood triumphs in young chef Omar Pereney’s hands: completing a nigh perfect meal was a clear-eyed red snapper (displayed for our approval by our server) grilled and finished with ajillo sauce and served along with an outstanding green salad of arugula, peas, asparagus, edamame, and green beans. Sunday brunch is drawing rave reviews.