This is classic Texas pit barbecue: deeply flavorful, moist, even dreamy. To great effect, Grant Pinkerton starts his meats over mesquite and finishes with white oak. The results are worth a drive. There’s a lodgelike feel to the room and a friendly vibe throughout, with a handwritten menu on butcher paper, wood and stone picnic tables, and big bearded guys manning the line. All the meats we tried were terrific, but the crusty beef rib stood out. Ditto the great brisket, zingy Czech sausage, and inventive sides (like jalapeño cheese rice and mustard potato salad).
Method: Mesquite and post oak; offset smoker
Pitmaster: Grant Pinkerton, 28
Pro-tip: Stay late and enjoy a cocktail from the bar.
Address: 1504 Airline Dr, Houston, TX, 77009
Hours: Wed & Thur 11–9, Fri & Sat 11–10, Sun 11–9
Phone: (713) 802-2000
Year Opened: 2016
Last updated: October 28, 2021
“How I cook here is exactly how I cook in my backyard,” Pinkerton said—maybe because it is his backyard.