This is classic Texas pit barbecue: deeply flavorful, moist, even dreamy. To great effect, Grant Pinkerton starts his meats over mesquite and finishes with white oak. The results are worth a drive. There’s a lodgelike feel to the room and a friendly vibe throughout, with a handwritten menu on butcher paper, wood and stone picnic tables, and big bearded guys manning the line. All the meats we tried were terrific, but the crusty beef rib stood out. Ditto the great brisket, zingy Czech sausage, and inventive sides (like jalapeño cheese rice and mustard potato salad).