The dining room is sleek and spare, but the pizzas are over-the-top at this modern cafe from Los Angeles. The Neapolitan-style crusts—made with slow-proofed dough—are appropriately thin with thick, pillowy rims (we had crisp and not-so-crisp crusts on different visits). Although not quite traditional, the pies boast classic Italian flavors. There’s a creamy-rich cacio e pepe pizza and a Neo Margherita, which is topped with dollops of concentrated San Marzano tomato sauce (rather than a thin spread) and basil-infused bread crumbs. Being chile-heads, our favorite pie was the Vodka, topped sparingly with a piquant vodka sauce and lavishly with spicy coppa, Calabrian chile, smoked Fior di Latte mozzarella, salsa verde, shaved Pecorino, and microgreens. For local barbecue fans, there’s a pizza starring Pecan Lodge’s smoked brisket. Don’t miss the excellent Cesare salad with fried capers and the carciofi arrostiti (crispy baby artichokes).