Testa, named for the owner’s maternal side of the family, is a step above the usual pizzeria. The dining room is comfortable, with a modern farmhouse style and a long, inviting bar. The pizzas are made from scratch with fresh ingredients like buffalo mozzarella, flour imported from Italy, and house-made sausage and cooked in a large wood-fire oven in a kitchen open to the dining room. Think thin-crusted capricciosa, divine with fior di latte, prosciutto cotto, mushrooms, artichokes, and black olives. Or the quattro formaggi, with fior di latte, Parmesan, fontina, and smoked mozzarella. Balance the pies with a simple and refreshing salad, like the arugula with bresaola, Parmesan, olive oil, and lemon. End with the cannoli, stuffed with fresh, thick sweet cream.