The spacious rear patio affords a spectacular view of downtown Houston and passing Sunset Limited trains almost close enough to touch. And the spare interior also makes a fitting backdrop for innovative fare prepared in small and large plates. We focused happily on the small: mustardy deviled eggs topped with pieces of pork belly; a variety of baby beets seasoned with candied pecan chunks, pomegranates, citrus, and cream cheese; short ribs with charred green onion; and “dirty” mushrooms with chicken liver (more liver, please!). Of the two large plates we sampled, a cheddar-enriched risotto topped with pulled pork and collard greens easily outscored a salty, incredibly tough flank steak with pasty whipped potatoes.
Cuisine: New American