Dining Guide

Potente

Houston Astros owner Jim Crane has introduced downtown to his first upscale restaurant. Reminiscent of a modern Italian villa, this romantic gray-hued spot, with lofty ceilings and a stunning bar, is so dimly lit it’s a relief to see that the menus are on iPads. We hit home runs with a tuna filet cooked to spec and served with grilled endive, a red bell pepper relish, and fried caper berries, and a generous rack of lamb over wild mushroom fagiolini. The only gaffe: red wine served too warm—sad indeed, given the excellent wine list.