Volume-wise, the newest location of Ramen Tatsu-Ya won’t be much of a respite from East Sixth’s burgeoning party strip. But put your order in at the bustling counter, take a number, and grab a seat next to new friends at one of the long tables: you’re only minutes away from a steaming bowl of comfort. The menu takes a few thoughtful liberties with Japanese fare; spicy edamame comes topped with a mix of dried chiles and a splash of lemony soy, and their version of the korokke (Japanese croquette) swaps in juicy pork belly for the typical ground meat. But the highlights hew to tradition. The impossibly creamy pork bone broth in the tonkotsu original—its decadence unparalleled in the world of soups—plays host to thin noodles, wood ear mushrooms, pork belly, delicate slices of scallion, and a perfectly jammy ajitama. If the party is set to continue after eating, opt for the Ol’Skool or the veggie ramen, with their lighter bases of chicken shoyu broth. You’ll feel no less satisfied but perhaps a bit more mobile.