Open again following the COVID-19 lockdown and the death of founder Kevin Williamson (in 2021), Ranch 616 is definitely back in business. Everything is still larger than life, and more fun, from the neon snake adorning the front of the building to the bartenders doing card tricks with patrons. Crispy oysters and calamari are fine ways to get the party started, followed by a Ranch Water—reposado tequila, orange liqueur, and lime juice served with a Topo Chico on the side—a drink allegedly invented by the irrepressible Williamson. Quail, prepared both grilled and fried, are tender, and there’s nothing diminutive about the serving or the hearty sides. Supple beef tenderloin, topped with chunks of crab on subtly cheesy grits, proved that more is indeed more. The lunch menu still serves up some classic Tex-Mex fare.