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Dining Guide

Rapscallion

Photograph by Kevin Marple

Inventive takes on classic Southern dishes make this boisterous bistro a popular spot on Greenville’s restaurant row. High entrée prices didn’t deter some guests from wearing shorts or T-shirts on our Friday night visit; to be fair, the signage does day “neighborhood bistro,” and the decor screams casual. Our meal began on a high note: blue crab salad bound with spicy aji amarillo mayo, served with packaged crackers. Pickled red onions and fish roe topped the crab tower, which sat on a puddle of Worcestershire vinaigrette; the vibrant flavors played well against the crab’s lovely sweetness. Chicken and dumplings was richly reinterpreted, with tender ricotta cavatelli replacing traditional dumplings and joining savory chicken carrots, and peas in a voluptuous Parmesan cream sauce. Topped with fried chicken skin, it was decadent. Redfish on the half shell was an unusually thick but compact filet, cut from its skin-and-scales serving base. It was a tad overcooked and overwhelmed by a spicy pepper sauce. The accompanying hush puppies and chow-chow didn’t mesh with it either. For $29, we had higher hopes. We took comfort in a safe dessert: bread pudding with blueberry compote and vanilla ice cream.

City: Dallas

Cuisine:

Drinks: Bar

Price: $$$

Rating: ★★

Address: 2023 Greenville Ave., Dallas, Texas, 75206

Hours: D Tue–Sun. B Sat & Sun.

Phone: 469-291-5660

Website: dallasrapscallion.com/

Last updated: December 13, 2017