The most famous cornerstone in downtown’s Sundance Square, the gussied-up, ranch-style steakhouse remains the place for taking out-of-towners and toasting Cowtown from the rooftop bar. We reacquainted ourselves with the ample chile relleno, a roasted poblano chock-full of smoky chicken and laden with corn chowder. Cracked black peppercorns make a good crust on the beef tenderloin, a satin-textured cut we found expertly cooked to our requested doneness (ruby center), but we opted for the cook’s herbed butter over the port sauce. Little things still impress here, such as the pecan-studded buttermilk mini-biscuits and the massive tangle of fried onion strings with chile-fired ketchup. Dutch oven apple crisp didn’t disappoint, nor did the habanero-lime margarita. And dang if we didn’t leave talking with a bit of twang after all that West Texas hospitality.