It’s back! The post-Harvey return of Bryan Caswell’s popular seafood restaurant perched on the edge of downtown means a new menu and a freshened-up look. Our group enjoyed starters of Pickled Shrimp (very small critters) with scallion pancakes and lime crema and the show-stopping if weirdly named Crab Fat & Dough (Texas blue crab baked in puffy bread). The menu spotlights some old favorites (barbecued crab) and some indulgent fried items, including popcorn shrimp and cauliflower and the rather infamous Fry Basket. But there are some restrained, healthful-leaning dishes too. Crispy-skin snapper was spot-on, served nestled in a delicate champagne nage with shredded leeks and other vegetables. Grouper, not always the most flavorful fish, came crowned by diced yellow peppers in a thyme broth with beets and beet purée. Service was a bit slow and disorganized, but our visit happened early on.