True, there are some Canadian specialties at this sleek, casual, and noisy place owned by chef Ryan Lachaine, of Manitoba, and named after that province’s founder, Louis Riel. But in fact the menu is all over the place—in a good way. Recent successes included a lovely heirloom tomato and burrata salad, with touches of sorrel and slices of dried prosciutto with a slightly spicy Espelette cream sauce. We also liked the corn gnocchi with cotija fondue, lime, and cilantro. Most plates are shareable, including entrées, so we continued with crispy skin snapper in a bacon tomato consommé, watercress, and cippolini and airline chicken breast, bacon-braised with great charred onion and crisp chanterelle mushrooms. If offered sticky toffee pudding with foie gras torchon and blood toffee sauce, accept.
Cuisine: New American