Dining Guide

Rim Tanon

As we know, street food is all the rage, whether Indian, Thai, Chinese, Lebanese, Latin, Hawaiian—you name it, and Houston has it. The aptly named Rim (which means “roadside”) makes a credible new entry on the Thai scene with some laudable dishes served in a colorful, casual setting. We sampled suea rong hai (“crying tiger”), charbroiled ribeye sliced and presented with spicy tamarind sauce and steamed vegetables, which was satisfying and a good buy at $15. And the peek gai tod, crisp fried chicken wings with garlic in a basil-spiked sauce made our wing experts happy. Equally fine was Pad Kaphrao + Khai Dao, a complex dish of minced, sautéed chicken with basil leaves, bell peppers, killer chiles, and a fried egg. Two dishes proved too sweet for us: the gaeng massaman (with undercooked potato cubes) and the shrimp-and-chicken pad thai.