As we know, street food is all the rage, whether Indian, Thai, Chinese, Lebanese, Latin, Hawaiian—you name it, and Houston has it. The aptly named Rim (which means “roadside”) makes a credible new entry on the Thai scene with some laudable dishes served in a colorful, casual setting. We sampled suea rong hai (“crying tiger”), charbroiled ribeye sliced and presented with spicy tamarind sauce and steamed vegetables, which was satisfying and a good buy at $15. And the peek gai tod, crisp fried chicken wings with garlic in a basil-spiked sauce made our wing experts happy. Equally fine was Pad Kaphrao + Khai Dao, a complex dish of minced, sautéed chicken with basil leaves, bell peppers, killer chiles, and a fried egg. Two dishes proved too sweet for us: the gaeng massaman (with undercooked potato cubes) and the shrimp-and-chicken pad thai.