We always seem to order the chiles rellenos, wonderfully meaty roasted peppers stuffed with cheese and fried till golden and crispy. This time we also went for the green chicken enchiladas, which at first gave us pause when our server brought our plates: there were no obvious rolled tortillas with sauce alongside the rice and refrieds, just a New Mexico–style dome topped with grated cheese. However it was constructed, the flavor and texture were delightful, spicy but not too. And the serving was so large that we were sure we’d need take-home boxes—until we ate every last bite.
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The chiles rellenos are tops at this homey Terlingua spot.