Chef Jorge Rojo has a winning formula with one of the best tacos we’ve ever eaten. And then there’s the restaurant’s namesake sandwich. The torta ahogada, “drowned” bread and pork, is made to order and features a hearty birote (Guadalajara-style baguette) stuffed with a generous portion of tender carnitas, topped with shredded cabbage and pickled onions, and drowned in a mild chile-tomato sauce. More chile sauce, if you want a vinegary zing, is on the tables, along with the requisite paper towels. But back to that stellar taco: same flavorful carnitas with a crunchy sprinkling of chopped chicharrones, minced onion, and cilantro and a drizzle of avocado crema that sets off taste-tingling fireworks. The bright little building, outside Loop 410 near the airport, surrounded by corporate office towers, is small and colorful, sited beneath an enormous oak that has somehow survived the concrete. From salsas to carnitas to bread, everything is made in house, and judging from the lunchtime lineup, it’s a not-so-secret destination.