Husband-and-wife owners Russell and Misty Roegels have been operating at this location since 2001, but three years ago they said goodbye to their Baker’s Ribs franchise and went their own way. Their hallmark is pepper—lots of it. The bark on the brisket and beef rib is a thing of black and spicy beauty, the meat beneath tender and moist. A sweet glaze distinguishes the juicy pork ribs, and even the pulled pork—which elsewhere is often indistinguishable from wet felt—has bits of crust and ample smoke flavor. Don’t skip the poultry here; the crispy-skinned chicken in particular is destination worthy. Excellent homemade sides and a fine bourbon banana pudding round out the picture. Oh, one final thing: Thursday’s lunch special, a smoked pastrami Reuben, is deliriously good.