Anchoring the first floor of a River Oaks–area high-rise, Roka Akor is spacious and contemporary, with a large glassed-in kitchen. And the food holds its own in a city blessed with excellent Asian restaurants. We loved the charred heirloom tomatoes mixed with shaved vegetables and a black-garlic dressing and the white miso soup with enoki mushrooms. Our meat eater polished off his wagyu flatiron steak served with slivers of maitake mushroom and a sukiyaki egg yolk. We splurged on the Japanese wild mushroom rice hot pot, paying extra for the shaved black truffle, its fragrance wafting up from the elegant wooden serving box.