Oh, to arrive with unlimited funds . . . In this beautiful, sleek spot, a warmth emerges as the sun sets and the room fills with candlelight. Roka Akor (a chain, but a good one) is a combo of inventive sushi and robata. For starters we chose a delicate yellowtail sashimi with green chile and garlic ponzu. We coupled this with grilled pork belly (not too fatty) cut by pickled radish and tarragon miso. Those were two immediate hits. Golden eye snapper and a salmon nigiri will also be dishes lingering long (and expensively) in memory. The seared escolar and prawn tempura maki was gorgeous, arranged dragon-like and zinged with fresh wasabi. It is now our benchmark for what maki can be. And a small wagyu sirloin, sliced and topped with marrow scooped from the bone, was tender, sweet, and perfect. A fine finale to our feast? A sizzling five-mushroom hot pot.