Dining Guide

Ronin

With their Full Moon Dinners, Brian and Amanda Light have long brought customers to their family farm. Now they’ve also settled into downtown Bryan’s century-old Ice House, where they’ve kept much of the interior intact and implemented a revolving menu that features their farm’s meat and produce. For a recent Sunday brunch, we feasted on huevos rancheros with guacamole, refried beans, and a dollop of tomatillo salsa; the accompanying flatbread, reminiscent of an airy sopaipilla, was particularly divine. Equally delicious was the chicken-fried steak with slightly spicy cream gravy and heirloom potatoes.