Patriarch Shu-Chang “Buck” Kao, a retired Taiwanese diplomat, founded his popular north Dallas restaurant in 1974. While it offers Mandarin, Sichuan, and Shanghai dishes, it is rightfully beloved for its handmade noodles and dumplings. Order this to go: a sampler platter with eight pan-fried dumplings, two each of vegetable, pork, shrimp and chicken; flat rice noodles (ho-fun) with mixed vegetables and your choice of meat or shrimp. Off-menu requests are possible too. Pro tip: Lunch specials available Sunday through Friday. Order dinner between 5 and 6 to avoid the rush of neighborhood regulars.

Note: Review reflects COVID-19 protocols in place at the time of visit.